"There's no place I'd rather be than on my surfboard out at sea!" – Lilo & Stitch. This catchy song perfectly encapsulates the surfing mentality many people in Hawaiʻi share. Here you'll learn all you need to know about surfing—from its history, beloved surf spots, and competitions, to even the perfect gift for a surfer! (Let's be honest, gifting a surfboard that they'll break a month later gets old after a while.)
The History of Surfing
Surfing (heʻe nalu in Hawaiian) is widely agreed to have originated in Hawaiʻi. While early Polynesian cultures held similar traditions, the first documentation of surfing came from Hawaiʻi. In ancient Hawaiʻi, surfing was a significant part of the culture, society, and customs. A Hawaiian's societal status actually determined what board they could use and what waves they caught.
The aliʻi (high-ranking officials) surfed on olo boards, which were longboards used to catch gently sloping waves. The calmer waves were considered more favorable and, therefore, reserved for royalty and chiefs. Dropping in on someone of higher rank was considered a severe violation of respect and risked harsh punishment or even death. The makaʻāinana (commoners) rode alaia boards, which were thinner and shorter—better for riding faster-breaking waves. Early surfboards were made from ʻulu, koa, and wiliwili wood, making them much heavier than modern high-tech boards.
In the 1800s, Western explorers along with Christian missionaries began discouraging traditional Hawaiian practices and pushed Eurocentric ideals. Surfing nearly became extinct, but in the late 1800s, King Kalākaua began championing its revival alongside other traditional practices. However, surfing's rise to global popularity must be credited to Duke Kahanamoku, "The Father of Modern Surfing."
A five-time Olympic medalist in swimming, he used his platform to introduce surfing to the U.S. Atlantic Coast, Australia, and New Zealand. He encountered many discriminatory hardships, with people puzzled by how he possessed "perfect" surfing form despite coming from an indigenous background. Despite these outside prejudices, he faced every challenge with aloha, and his groundbreaking influence in swimming and surfing eventually spread worldwide.
Legendary Surf Competitions in Hawaiʻi Today
Hawaiʻi has become the mecca of surfing and surf competitions. Most of them take place on the North Shore of Oahu where the "7-Mile Miracle" happens: a 7-mile-long strip of beaches and famous surf breaks that feature some of the best waves in the world. The WSL Pipe Masters is surfing's most prestigious and renowned competition, serving as the season-ending finale for the World Surf League Championship Tour. Hosted annually at Banzai Pipeline, the best of the best battle it out in barreling waves to see who is crowned champion.
For big-wave surfers, The Eddie Aikau Big Wave Invitational is the ultimate showdown. Located at Waimea Bay, the competition only occurs during massive winter swells where wave faces consistently reach 40 feet. It is held to honor Eddie Aikau, a legendary big-wave surfer and the first official lifeguard on Oahu's North Shore. He saved over 500 lives and ultimately gave his life paddling out to get help for his crewmates, which inspired the famous phrase "Eddie Would Go."
Famous Surf Spots in Hawaiʻi
Banzai Pipeline (Oahu)
Famous for being one of the best waves in the world, it showcases a legendary barreling left over shallow reef.
Waimea Bay (Oahu)
Calm during the summer with people rock-jumping, but during the winter, this spot holds massive swells that attract adrenaline seekers.
Waikiki Beach (Oahu)
An ideal learning spot for beginners. With gentle rolling waves and a sandy bottom, many surf schools teach beginner surfers how to stand up on their first wave!
Jaws "Peʻahi" (Maui)
One of the most famous massive tow-in wave spots. The winter swells drive towering, monstrous waves.
Hanalei Bay (Kauaʻi)
Calm, intermediate/beginner surfing in the summer and big-wave advanced surfing in the winter.
Kahaluʻu Bay (Big Island)
Offers calmer sets, good for people who are learning how to surf. It is sheltered, so it generally offers smaller rolling waves.
Bring the Waves Home: The Nalu Collection
"Nalu" is the Hawaiian word for "wave." The poignant beauty of ocean waves lies in their ever-changing impermanence. With the Nalu Collection, you can capture that essence—ensuring their power, grace, and beauty remain everlasting. Shop Nalu Collection Here!
Where the Waves Leave Their Mark: The Ocean Sand Collection
Waves are stunning to witness on the surface, but did you know they also create masterpieces underwater? Take a dive under and you'll discover that they leave a mark of ripples in the sand. With the Ocean Sand Collection, the blue waters of Hawaiʻi live close to your heart.
Maui Divers creates designs that honor the beauty of the ocean and its formidable power. The ever-changing becomes everlasting with our thoughtfully handcrafted jewelry. Made in Hawaiʻi, it is the perfect gift any waterman or waterwoman will cherish for a lifetime. Shop Ocean Sands Collection Here!
Explore all our beloved collections here.
Sources
International Surfing Association — isasurf.org
Surfer Today — surfertoday.com
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